The Great Wall of Ardent Self-Promotion
Earthshine reader —
It's me (Dazé), and every time I sit down to decide which walk to feature next, I flail like a washed-up fish.
Most of the time, I fancy something from my Japan pool, and that means confronting a lot of good contenders. Ideally, I'd be caught up and didn't have to choose other than where to walk next, but that's not happening soon, if ever …
Alas, a decision was made, and today, I bring you a short but sweet letter from an event I attended 18 months ago on a hot and humid Thursday evening.
It was July 13, 2023. A few days earlier, my wife mentioned an upcoming lantern festival occurring at a shrine (Yasukuni-jinja), adding it was one of Tokyo's largest Obon festivals. (Obon or Bon festivals are Buddhist events for commemorating one's ancestors, whose spirits are believed to temporarily return to this world.) A lantern festival? One of Tokyo's biggest? A chance to see ghosts?! She had my attention.
(Japan is notable for its festivals or matsuri, and although these celebrations are spread out over the year, most take place in the warmer months. This one concerned the annual Mitama Matsuri — mitama meaning "spirit of a deceased person". What makes it special is that … well, you'll soon find out.)
The plan was to rendezvous after work in front of Kudanshita Station, which wasn't far from the shrine. When the day came, however, I considered not going, as the prospect of a one-hour commute to be among masses in 30°C + 70% humidity wasn't tempting. In the end, though, my wife convinced me to bite the bullet. After all, attending more matsuri was one of our objectives for the year.
Behold, lanterns. Yes, these lights — the 30,000 of them (!!!) — are Mitama Matsuri's hallmark, illuminating the path to Yasukuni Shrine. Why so many? I'm not sure, but maybe the country's GDP rank has something to do with it. What's written on them? Is it haiku? The names of ancestors? Welcoming messages for the spirits? I wish the answer were as romantic; the writings are but the names of the festival's sponsors — random companies who bought a (spot)light.
That's a lot of companies, and yet, a single blue screen light was enough to divert my attention from the great wall of ardent self-promotion. Smartphones, where will your quiet dominion lead us to? I fear the results will be loud …
This corner — its array of objects and the way the light falls onto them — has a bit of a movie quality, no? Standing there reminded me of the special feeling you get from being on set (most of the time). I'm guessing that's why I was attracted to it — either that or I have a visual fetish for scaffolding, who knows …
The festival packs more than just lanterns. There were rituals, Bon dances, music performances (like the one seen above), a display of Edo-period art, and even a flower exhibition. However, in true Dazé fashion, my attention veered from the main events. (This newsletter is not a travel guide.) For instance, I was intrigued by this monk, diligently checking the lights. Upon closer inspection, is that … a smartphone at the bottom of his sleeve?! Do you mean to tell me that even the world's most immune figures can't resist the blue light? … The doom is upon us.
On a lighter note, I was about to capture a close-up of the lanterns when "kimono girls enveloped by lanterns" became a more scintillating idea for the poet in me. (All puns intended.)
Mitama Matsuri is an ideal occasion for those who — unlike myself — indulge in the practice of selfies and the whole social media grind. Speaking of influencers, I stumbled upon one at this event: Elsa Arribas (Bunny Tokyo), and her partner. Funny enough, it was me who recognised her after the few times my wife had shown me her work. Consequently, the missus started a chat with her while we men merely smiled. The last thing I remember is Elsa-san being a good influencer by reminding us to stay hydrated. Gracias, Bunny.
These lanterns are called kakebonbori and, unlike the others, offer calligraphy by distinguished figures from various fields. Unfortunately, my low-ranking nihongo prevented me from appreciating them in their entirety.
Travelling halfway across the world to experience the magic of Japan comes with a few challenges. One of them is the time zone difference and the unavoidable jet lag that follows it, which is likely what this gentleman had not yet recovered from. What interests me about this frame is that the Japanese couple appear to be glancing at him while whispering to one another. Now, from what I remember, they weren't; they were reading off the lanterns. Still, as a nation that values norms and has the concept of respect in its DNA, it wouldn't surprise me if one or two … insular thoughts drifted across their minds. (For the record, I don't blame them. At the same time, to quote the French, il y a pire — "it could be worse".)
Before long, my eyes were "full" and the heat-humidity combo became unbearable. On the way back, I crafted this composition, but don't ask me why. Sometimes you feel an idea as opposed to understanding it. Or, as Kubrick put it:
The feel of the experience is the important thing, not the ability to verbalise or analyse it.
The main wall in all its glory. I believe the red characters read "offer lantern", followed by the festival's name. As for why the girl is blocking her ears, I guess that an ancestor was on her heels, advising her not to date boys at her age.
Lastly, the serendipity of the day. I was nearing the exit when I noticed these two ahead of me, so I hurried off, caught up with them, and fired away. The few times I do this, the picture doesn't work out; the focus is often nonexistent and the angle is too skewed for my taste. This time, miraculously, it worked.
On the train, as I reviewed the photos with a dumb smile, my wife so kindly reminded me that I almost didn't go and what a shame that would have been, except … her choice of words was slightly different:
I was right. Say it.
Until next time,
D